Canine Reproduction  & Whelping Guide   by Debbie Jensen
Supplies Needed for Delivering Puppies



Letter to You
Why I became an Imperial Shih Tzu breeder

Whelping Photos
See pups as they are born

Heat Cycles
First days of heat

Pre Natal Care of pups
Care of the Bitch before and during Pregnancy

Mating your dog
Best days to bred your bitch

The Stud
His ability to produce sperm and mate and artificial insemination

Is she Pregnant
Signs she is pregnant

Java Due date
Inside her body fertilization to birth

Due Date Chart
Puppies are usually born 61 days after conception

Temp Chart
Taking a dogs temperature and recording her temp to predict her whelp day

Print Temp Chart
Taking her temp to determine whelping time

Whelping Supplies
Hemostats, bulb syringes, towels tons of them

Labor Stages
Digging, Shivering and Panting

See a Live Birth
See my Shih Tzu deliver a pup

Hard Labor Begins
Whelping the puppies

Aspirating Throat & Nose
Removing Fluids from the nasal passages

Umbilical Cord
How to cut the umbilical cord

Difficult Whelp (Dystocia)
What to do if shes in distress

What Can go Wrong - Movie
Distressed Pup and Mom

Care of Bitch
Discharge, Retained Placentas, Eclampsia

Puppy Care
Fading Pup, Bottle Feeding, Tube feeding, Vaccinations

Weaning the pups
Giving the pups food

Disease of Dogs
Distemper, Hepatitis, Parvovirus

Worms and Fleas
Roundworm, tapeworm, Coccidia, Fleas & Giardia

Selling Your Puppys
Placing your Puppies

Terms of Breeding
Common breeder terms we all should know

More Whelping Photos

Imperial Shih Tzu by Jensen
Imperial Shih Tzu breeder since 1976
Now Chinese Imperial Dog


If my site helped you Donate any $ 1.00 Amount

Quantity


Canine Reproduction The Series  Online Video


Jensen Whelping Guide - Digital E Book!


Buy Both ebook and Video



Supplies Needed for Delivering Puppies

Supplies needed for Whelping

Hair dryer You may want to blow dry the pups to dry them off. Great for a sluggish pup too, gets him going.
Stethoscope - to listen for heartbeats and to make sure all pups are whelped
Towels - lots of them. If you think you have enough, your wrong. get more. Rub the puppies hard to stimulate them.
Karo Syrup - Weak pups get fast energy from a few drops of Karo Syrup.
Styptic powder - to stop bleeding
Hemostats
- for crimping the umbilical cord and to stop it from bleeding
Dull scissors - for cutting the umbilical cord, dull scissors crimp as well as cut
Paper and pen - to record the time each pups are born, and how much time lapse between pups. Record each placenta. Identify each pup. Notes on behavior of your female so you will remember next time she has a litter.
Heating pad - keep on low setting, with a towel over it. Keep the pups warm.
Bulb syringe - to aspirate fluids from nose and throat. Start with the throat, and then the nostrils.
Best Bulb syrange. Good for getting deep in the thraot
Antiseptic - to apply to umbilical cord
Paper towels
Garbage can
Scale - to weigh pups at birth. Monitor pups weight until you see them double their birth weight
Identity marker - some band or marker to distinguish each pup
Camera - If you e-mail me a good gif or jpeg file of your pups being born I will add them to my book
Novel - to read, whelping can last for hours
Beer - Nope not for you..... two teaspoons for mom if she has no milk. (Based on a 10 pound dog) Large breeds 1/4 cup.





Whelping Box
I have a new Whelping Box idea. It does not have the bumper rails like the wood box below. I can keep this one cleaner. Its a plastic storage bin, I bought at K-Marts for $ 8.00. The measurements are 18" x 27". The right size to fit a carpet mat. Here's how it looks in my nursery.
This is my Nursery

Whelping Box



Here is a inexpensive whelping box that you can make in minutes.
Make sure your box is large enough for your dog to lay down in.
Let it be tall enough so she can easily stand up and turn around.
The flip open design is excellent so you can clean it and view the pups.
Use a carpet remnant for the top of the flooring and 1/2 inch newspapers underneath
If you house is chilly you can put a heating pad on low setting under the box in one corner.
Some breeds need a design with guard rails, so pups don't get pinned and crushed by the sides of the box.
uhaul.jpg - 21549 Bytes
Moving companies like U-Haul sell any size box

Look at my husband, Jay Jensen design at the bottom pictures.

whelping box



If you choose to make your whelping box out of wood, include this rail design. Our great Danes couldn't crush it. We jump up and down on the sides. It would not come down.




"SWIMMER" PUPPIES

Swimmers may occur in litters of Corgis or of Newfoundlands. Any breed can be affected. It is not the length of leg that predisposes a puppy or a litter to this problem. The condition is not necessarily hereditary, even though it may occur repeatedly in the litters of one bitch.

All puppy bones are little more than rubber bands in their first weeks of life. If you notice the shape of the chest of your puppies as they are born, you will see a normal oval shape, with the long axis vertical. As puppies crawl around the whelping box and nurse, often they begin to acquire a more flattened shape, with the long axis of the chest becoming more and more horizontal.

Factors which contribute to this are
1. Excessive milk consumption - due to a mother with great deal of milk willing to stay in the whelping box for long stretches. This is what accounts for repeated litters of swimmers from one bitch.
2. Flat whelping box - no way for a puppy to alter pressure on the rib cage by crawling up onto a toy or something similar.
3. Temperature in room too warm - puppies are content to lie in one position and not move around looking for a warm spot.
Delayed walking and aspiration pneumonia are possible consequences of this flattened shape.

Treatment and prevention are pretty much the same thing. Do not allow a bitch with too much milk to spend an unlimited amount of time in the box nursing her puppies. Watch for the first evidence of this problem and take steps to get mother away from the puppies for a couple of hours at a time if you see it starting. Even if this makes more cleanup for you, it will help the puppies. Place sections of orthopedic "egg carton" foam under the blanket in the box, raise one end of the box 2 to 3 inches, or put lots of small soft toys in it so that the puppies can find a place were they can get the weight of the stomach off their lungs, and can orient with their head and chest higher than their abdomen.

Do not have the room too warm. A heating pad under the blanket in the center of the box will give the puppies a reason to move around when the bitch leaves the box, going to the warm spot where they can use each other as ramps to get their head and chest going uphill. If your puppies are spread out all over the box when not nursing, your room and box are too warm. They should want to congregate in one area, and touch one another. If they pile up (literally) and whimper, they are too cool. Keep the room at a comfortable temperature of 68 to 72, so the bitch can be comfortable and not stressed by heat, and so that the puppies will gather in one area of the box. This has the additional benefit of keeping them from being squashed by the bitch or against the sides of the box when she enters the box and lies down.

Traditionally 'hobbling' the puppies legs has been used to help get these puppies up on their feet. In some short legged breeds this may indeed help, but generally speaking, the prevention and treatment guidelines above will be all that are necessary. If puppies have aspiration pneumonia from pressure on their stomach and lungs, cold nebulization and antibiotic treatment may be needed.

Written by Mary C. Wakeman, D.V.M.